Do-it-yourself: repair the washing machine yourself?

Do-it-yourself: repair the washing machine yourself?

When the Washing Machine goes on strike, many people refuse to lend a hand themselves. Do-it-yourselfers are afraid they could do more harm than repair the device. There are many guides on the Internet today that use the principle of "do-it-yourself". explain in detail how various appliances are repaired in the home. The washing machine is one of these appliances.

  • Washing machine
  • Drain hose
  • Pump
  • Fluff filter
  • Heating rod

When is a repair worth?

Everyone has this Scenario experienced before: You fill the washing machine with laundry, turn it on and the device makes only strange sounds. Then nothing works anymore. The washing machine is not that old. Now, the consumer asks: Get repaired or buy a new device? A new device has the advantage that it has a lower energy consumption. It's not easy to say whether the investment pays off in comparison to the repair. Basically, one should always take a look at the age of the device and then ask for a cost estimate for the repair. The

repair costs are always calculated according to the age of the household appliance, the newer the product, the higher the repair costs. The prices for a washing machine are as follows: Age of the appliance

Repair costs of the new price to 4 years
to 70% 5 to 7 years
to 55% 8 - 10 years
to 35% from 10 years
to 15% If the repair costs are too high and a new purchase is also out of the question, then you can still repair yourself.

Troubleshooting after symptoms

Water is not pumped out

Typical symptoms:

Leakage

  • Defective latching relay
  • Drum does not spin
  • Unit strikes
  • Water drained
  • Water does not enter
  • Laundry is warm after program end
  • Bad wash result
  • Unusual noises
  • Possible causes:

Suction-side blockage on outlet hose

  • Foreign object in lint filter or pump
  • Discharge on the pressure side due to kinked drain hose or foreign bodies in front of hose connector or Siphon connection
  • Blockage at the home drainage siphon stall
  • worn solenoid
  • heavy pump
  • broken or burned pump
  • leaking

If water is leaking, the following may be the cause of the beginning of the program:

Inlet hose is clogged and the hopper is running over

  • Hose of the wash-in box has slipped
  • leaky inlet hose or wash-in box
  • Foreign body pushes pot of thermostat probe out of wash tub
  • due to overheating of heater generates a hole in heating heat exchanger
  • During the wash program these errors occur:

Door seal, hose, pump seal, tub or lint filter is leaking

  • Defective drum bearing
  • Clogged air trap overflowing drum
  • At the end of the wash program, the following problems are noticeable:

Inlet hose at inlet valve or faucet leaking

  • Vat or vat vent are leaking above the waterline
  • Siphon in Fabric softener chamber is blocked
  • Washing machine has no function

If the washing machine does not function in all program sections, the following faults are possible:

faulty thermal door switch or main switch

  • no voltage at the socket or at the device connection
  • at older top loaders, the safety switch can be activated with extended casters
  • Defective suppressor (for older Miele appliances)
  • triggered full water protection
  • Defective timer motor
  • Bearing damage, what now?

Washing machine owners with

Toploaders can breathe deeply. These models are far less affected by bearing damage than common models with front loaders. Front-load washing machines have drum-type drums with two ball bearings or roller bearings. These are kept away from the suds by means of seals. Over the years, the gaskets become porous, allowing moisture to enter the bearing. The bearing corrodes and is eventually destroyed. As a result, the leakage decreases more and more and water comes out of the container, which encloses the drum. This water then drips into the washer housing. A

Bearing Damage can be identified by metallic-hard noises heard as the drum rotates. The sounds are sometimes audible only occasionally. Modern machines report the occurring leak as a fault. With a handle inside the machine, it can be determined whether the bearing damage has occurred: If the drum has great play, the bearing is damaged. Turning the drum causing unusual clacking sounds is also indicative of bearing damage. A damaged bearing can be fixed by do-it-yourselfers with matching tools and spare parts themselves. On the other hand, anyone who seeks professional help should plan for at least 200 euros. For a little more money you buy a new washing machine right away. Self-repair is therefore the cheapest option.

The pitfalls of heating

Advertisers repeatedly point out that

water softeners help prevent heating problems. Although the concept with a separate softener is basically not wrong, nevertheless, heavy-duty detergents are the real problem. The reason is simple: With a ready-made mixture of washing-active substances and softeners, perfect dosage for all hardness ranges can not be achieved. Ideally, one would have to use a kind of modular detergent, where the two components can be dosed individually. Unfortunately, many customers are comfortable and do not want to dose two substances.

After the manufacturers of laundry detergent with their & quot; anxiety & quot; have no more success, as the customers have realized that lime is defused by washing powder, there is now a new culprit:

magnesium lime . What the manufacturers do not mention: Magnesium lime is present in tap water in very low doses. The tap water is so hard in only a few regions of Germany that a softener is necessary. And now for the heating of washing machines. When the lye is heated up, the

heating elements are chemically and thermally stressed. The function of the bars is as follows: They consist of tubular heaters, in the middle of which there is a constant coil, which is heated by the mains voltage. Using a ceramic powder mixture, the heat is then transferred to the metal tube. The tube is made of copper and a chromium-nickel layer. That's exactly the problem: Detergent and lime precipitate a layer that increases the temperature of the wand during operation. In today's washing machines,

fuses are used in heaters that are triggered at too high a temperature. This backup is prescribed by the VDE [PDF; 29 KB] and are compulsory in every washing machine. If the washing machine has gotten rid of dirty washes with broken heating, the tubular heaters are usually bloated like puff pastry. To solve the problem, loosen the compression fitting and then pull it back and forth until the

Puff is scraped through the insertion hole. Then you only need matching spare parts, which can be found on the start page of the online shop. Then the old washing machine will run again. Product Image: © lightwavemedia / Shutterstock


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